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At the Appetite Cure
This establishment’s name is Hochberghaus. It is in Bohemia, a short day’s journey from Vienna, and being in the Austrian Empire is, of course, a health resort. The empire is made up of health resorts; it distributes health to the whole world. Its waters are all medicinal. They are bottled and sent throughout the earth; the natives themselves drink beer. This is of course self- sacrifice, — but foreigners who have drunk Vienna beer have another idea about it. Especially the Pilsener which one gets in a small cellar up a dark street (the name has escaped me, but the place is easily found). You inquire for the Greek church; and when you get to it, go right along by — the next house is that little beer-mill. It is far from all traffic and all noise; it is always Sunday there. There are two small rooms, with low ceilings supported by massive arches: the arches and ceilings are whitewashed, otherwise the rooms would pass for prison cells. The furniture is simple and cheap, there is no ornamentation anywhere. But the beer there is incomparable; there is nothing like it elsewhere in the world. In the first room you will find twelve or fifteen ladies and gentlemen of civilian quality; in the other one a dozen generals and ambassadors. One may live in Vienna many months and not hear of this place; but having once heard of it he will always visit it.